RP-Department of Fashion, Design & Marketing

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Status and In-Service Training Needs of the 2000- 2009 Tailoring and Dressmaking Graduates of Outreach Skills Training Centre at Kenyatta University
(1987) Tumuti, D.W.; Nguku, E.K.; Oigo, B.; Kimemia, M.
Service to humanity is one of the major core values and an important component of Kenyatta University's mission statement. To accomplish this mission, the university initiated the Directorate of Community Outreach and Extension Programs (COEP) in 2007. The directorate is charged with the responsibility of organizing Kenyatta University community to give services to the Kenyan communities based on their needs by equipping them with knowledge, skills, information and other resources in order to improve their quality of life. The Directorate operates under four (4) major programs, one of which is training the underprivileged youth from the surrounding communities in employable trade skills. Currently, this program is training the youth in Tailoring and Dressmaking. The programme was initiated in 1999 to train youth from the neighbouring Kiwanja Village. Since then, the Directorate has expanded its catchment area to include youth from other neighbouring communities. The target population is the underprivileged youth who are either primary or secondary school leavers/drop outs majority of them being household workers, teenage mothers and others who could not continue with their formal education. This paper outlines the findings of a study done in 2011 to determine the status and in-service training needs of the program graduates from the first ten years since inception. The major findings indicated that 76 percent of those who registered for the training completed it. The trainees who completed the program either became self employed, got jobs in related and unrelated areas while others did not work at all. Those working in dress making related areas were not fully able to cope with market demand since they had never upgraded their skills after the initial training. Those who were not working at all and those working in unrelated areas could not retain their skills after leaving the centre due to lack of practice. Most of the problems experienced by program graduates revolved around lack of adequate skills, lack of initial capital to start personal business, lack of interest, and low self confidence especially in context of the current apparel and fashion industry which is technologically developing very fast both locally and internationally. It is evident that most of the program graduates require further training to close the gap between their skills and the skill requirements in the job market. This paper highlights the status and training needs of the program graduates as indicated in the research findings.
The Nature of Work and Problems of Rural Women in Kenya: Implication for Home Economics
(Education Resources Information Centre, 1990) Tumuti, D.W.
Home Economics is a profession which helps families and individuals to improve their quality of life. The majority of families in Kenya live and work in rural areas where facilities and resources are limited. Women provide 60-80% of the farm labor. Despite the hard working conditions, rural women have a major responsibility in promoting the standard of living in rural areas. They need professional help in order to utilize the available resources wisely. Home Economics curriculum at all levels of education should include some subsistence farming, food storage, and utilization and should incorporate family and population concepts in all Home Economics related subjects. There is a need to carry out research and to develop appropriate labor and time saving tools and equipment for the tasks performed by rural women both in their homes and on their farms. Training institutions offering Home Economics should develop outreach programs as an extra-curricular activity to visit and educate the rural community around the institutions. When dealing with an area that is as comprehensive as rural families' welfare, a proper coordination and integration within all the government and non-government agencies working for rural development is needed in order to avoid wasting of resources and to minimize duplication and confusion that would be created in the field. (ABL)
Effects of Working Mothers on Child Development in Kenya
(Education Resources Information Centre, 1991) Tumuti, D.W.
More women have entered the job market than ever before. With the current socioeconomic changes and with more women attaining education, the number of working women is going to increase rapidly. Most of the working women are of childbearing age and have both preschool and school-age children. While women have to work, it is becoming rather difficult for them to get good substitutes for child rearing. Poor child rearing has been associated with poor child development. The effect of the current child rearing practices has not been questioned in Kenyan society. Its effects should be of major concern not only to parents but also to employers, educators, and the society at large if children are expected to grow normally. Erikson's stages of psychological and cognitive development have been used as a yardstick to illustrate the effect of the current child rearing in Kenya. Kenyan women are being encouraged to enter the job market by current socioeconomic changes and by the education system and this is not expected to change. The role of housemaids, day care centers, and other forms of child rearing will remain dominant. It is important therefore to explore all possible compensatory measures that would limit the possible ill effects associated with current upbringing of children to ensure advantageous and purposed child rearing. (Author/ABL)
The role of garment sizing in creation of customer satisfaction: Indications from focus group responses
(Emerald, 2000) Otieno, R.
Meeting sizing needs in today's clothing is an important aspect of customer satisfaction. Based on the critical incident and grounded theory techniques, data from focus groups with parents are analysed to establish consumer satisfaction/dissatisfaction with children's garment sizing. While results revealed that parents were dissatisfied with garment sizing, the study focuses on specific causes of dissatisfaction. The centrality of efficient sizing in creation of consumer satisfaction is underscored.
Development of a conceptual framework of the role of sizing in marketing strategy within clothing firms: Indications from in‐depth interviews with manufacturers
(Emerald, 2000) Otieno, R.
The aim of this research was to develop a conceptual framework of the role of garment sizing in the marketing strategy of clothing manufacturing firms in Kenya. From the review of literature, salient components of marketing principles and practices that had been analysed by preceding authors provided the theoretical basis for this qualitative study. The procedures for the in‐depth interviews with 13 clothing manufacturers and ten retailers are explained. Based on grounded theory techniques, the data from the interviews were analysed, resulting in a conceptual framework for determining marketing strategy in this clothing market. Results showed that these firms are still market production oriented, and may face severe competition from inward‐bound competitors who are marketing oriented. This exploratory study contextualised the role of size charts in the marketing strategy of clothing firms.
The unhappy shopper, a retail experience: exploring fashion, fit and affordability
(Emerald, 2005) Otieno, R.; Harrow, C.; Lea‐Greenwood, G.
Purpose This paper explores fashion availability, fit and affordability in the UK stores especially for those women who wear size 16 and over; and examines their satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the retail experience. Design/methodology/approach The satisfaction of customer needs remains a fundamental tenet of marketing theory, research and application. This survey was an exploratory study into satisfaction/dissatisfaction with the fashion provision and shopping environments for women in the UK. A questionnaire solicited the views of 250 women thereby enabling the researchers to gauge consumers' views on sizing, fit and fashion availability, perception of current offers, pricing and shopping environments. Findings A large percentage of females, particularly those who wear size 16 and over, are dissatisfied with retail environments, fashion and sizing provision among major UK market players. While most women shopped from the high street and department stores, the larger woman had great difficulty in finding well‐fitting fashionable clothing in general, and with certain categories being most problematic. Respondents' views would appear to contradict previously accepted wisdom that clothing consumption activity is leisure and pleasure orientated; many negative experiences prevailed leaving them unhappy and disenfranchised. Research limitations/implications The findings presented are the views of women's experiences in one city in the UK. Future research could include a wider sample from more cities. Practical implications Marketers should be aware of the need for affordable fashions for larger women. Lack of appropriate sizes is a major source of dissatisfaction. This creates negative emotions in terms of: merchandise choice, visual merchandising, store environment, sales personnel attitude, pricing policies and promotional activities. These factors are the very foundations of consumer satisfaction and the evidence of consumer dissatisfaction resulting in avoidance behaviour should be particularly worrying for retailers, given that they are operating in an increasingly competitive and saturated fashion environment. Originality/value This paper provides an initial indication of what creates consumer satisfaction or dissatisfaction about fashion, fit, affordability and retail environments in the UK particularly among larger women. This paper shows areas of specific concern for marketers.
Ethical practice and methodological considerations in researching body cathexis for fashion products
(Emerald, 2007) Otieno, R.; Apeagyei, P. R.; Tyler, D.
Purpose The paper seeks to identify ethical issues arising from body cathexis research and analyse categories for attention. To also highlight methodological considerations in generating body size data through measurement for fashion products. Design/methodology/approach This study presents instrumental activities and strategies for conducting and implementing focus groups for investigating body cathexis and related body measurements for fashion products. Five homogenous groups of 30 females aged 19‐44 years, were employed. Purposive and proportionate sampling procedures involving both qualitative and quantitative methods were applied and analysed by triangulation. Aspects of the methodology of measurement are presented in this paper but analysis of measurement data is presented in a subsequent paper. Key ethical principles by the Economic and Social Research Council (ESRC), UK have been also evaluated in relation to the integrity of such a study. Findings The study found that deciding on procedures regarding collating data on psychological issues related to garment fit is an obscure process that is not clearly documented in literature. It raised significant issues relating to sensitivity to respondents' concerns when conducting an investigation into body cathexis for fashion products. A framework for ethical and methodological practice in researching body cathexis and ethical deliberation in generating body measurement data has therefore been presented. Originality/value This study presents guidelines for ethical practice and develops an ethical framework for research and professional practice.
Usability of pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit for mass customisation
(Emerald, 2007) Otieno, R.; Apeagyei, P. R.
Purpose – The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit. Design/methodology/approach – This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary data from experiments on the provision and testing of garment fit of specified size patterns for a jacket and skirt. Findings on virtual and human fit trials and an evaluation of the 3D technology are presented. Findings – The study found that 3D software for fit provision and testing is still in its infancy, although advancements are currently being made in this area. It establishes that while fit can be virtually tested with 3D technology, its usability is not yet fine‐tuned. It evaluates procedures and presents problematic features of the 3D software. It underscores that although some issues concerning efficient provision and testing of fit still exist, 3D technology overall provides adequate evaluation of fit. Originality/value – This study highlights areas for fine tuning and provides a basis for further research. While discussing usability of one pattern technology, this paper presents a platform for comparative evaluation of other technology.
Approaches in researching human measurement: MMU model of utilising anthropometric data to create size charts
(EuroMed Research Business Institute, 2008) Otieno, R.
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present a model of researching clothing anthropometrics at the Manchester Metropolitan University in the UK (MMU model), to demonstrate steps in devising size charts by analysing raw data, to relate key aspects of size charts to raw data, and to generate debate on such methods that impinge on the disseminated knowledge in this specialised area. Although sizing is important to consumers, retailers and manufacturers, this area has received scarce attention in the literature. Design/methodology/approach – The MMU model presents step‐by‐step processes in generating size charts. Data from 150 women generated descriptive statistics (mean, standard deviation, percentiles); these were utilised to devise seven sizes of a body measurements table. Correlations were used to determine relationships, resulting in size charts with a defined size range and grading increments that are relatable to utilisation by consumers, retailers and manufacturers. Findings – A step‐by ‐step model of analysing raw data is presented. A verifiable size chart, codes, grading increments and size limits relatable to data are generated. The usefulness of size charts is therefore contextualised. Research limitations/implications – This paper discusses only one model of researching clothing anthropometrics and provides a related conceptual framework; this could be the basis for future research and debate in this area. Practical implications – For competitiveness, efficient sizing is useful for marketing, especially in creating niches, targeting customers and facilitating consumer satisfaction. Originality/value – The MMU model provides an initial conceptual framework at one institution, a benchmark for similar practice in academia and industry and subsequent debate in literature.
Performance of Six Bivoltine Bombyx mori (Lepidoptera: Bombycidae) Silkworm Strains in Kenya
(The Open Entomology Journal,, 2009) Nguku, E.K.; Adolkar, V.V.; Raina, S.K.; Mburugu, K.G.; Mugenda, O.M.; Kimbu, D.M.
The economic and field performance of six Bombyx mori Linnaeus bivoltine strains were evaluated, namely ICIPE I, Chun-Lei X ZhengZhu (C X Z), QuiFeng X BaiYu (Q X B), Quingsong X Haoyoe (Q X H), Suju X Minghu (S X M) and 75xin X 7532 (75xin). Performance was based on larval, cocoon, pupa and shell weights, relationship of food consumption to larval weight, cocoon weight and shell weight. ICIPE I recorded the shortest larval development period in Location 1 (S1) during the short rains (SR) (26.53 + 5.05 days) and it was significantly shorter compared to that of the` other strains. It also had the highest cocoon shell weight (CSW) in location 1 (S1) and location 2 S2), 0.38 and 0.36gms respectively. ICIPE I and C X Z strains gave better performance for the parameters evaluated and are most suitable for the Kenyan conditions
Challenges and Opportunities for Handicraft Traders as East Meets West at Open Air Markets in Nairobi, Kenya
(The international journal of costume culture, 2010) Oigo, E. B.; Wanduara, M. W.; Nguku, E. K.
East and West meet in Kenya as tourists to enjoy the climate, hospitality and tourist attractions. Handicraft traders target tourists from the East and the West to buy handicrafts. This research was carried out among textile handicraft traders in open air markets in Nairobi, Kenya to find out their product range, customer base and issues affecting their businesses. The study found that only 25% of the handicraft traders exported abroad. Most of the traders would like to and would benefit more from export trade; however they face challenges in doing so. Handicraft traders are constrained in exporting their products to the East and West because of insufficient information, inadequate capital and lack of contacts in the export location.
Psychological Factors Influencing Clothing Selection among Adolescents
(2012) Tumuti, D.W.; Mwaniki, S.; Odero; Kathuri
During adolescence, teenagers exhibit various characteristics. These include the search for identity, whereby they are involved in trying out different behaviours and self-images in an attempt to discover their own selves. They also attempt to establish a personal autonomy. In these endeavours, clothing is used as a means of declaring independence by the adolescents. The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of selected clothing-physiological factors on clothing selection and purchase among adolescents in Nakuru district. A cross-sectional survey was used to collect data from 667 respondents by use of a self-administered questionnaire. Descriptive statistics were used to analyze the data. Results indicate that garment fit, the colour and design of the fabric are the most influential factors, while the ease of garment care is the least influential factor considered by the adolescents. The study concludes that adolescents value attractive, good quality clothing. This study recommends that local tailors and clothing manufacturers need to produce a variety of good quality, fashionable clothing to encourage Kenyan adolescents to purchase locally produced goods.
Evaluation of Different Cocoon Stifling Methods on Raw Silk Quality.
(2012-04-12) Nguku, Everlyn Kamene
Study on the Influence of Fiber Properties on Yarn Imperfections in Ring Spun Yarns
(Science Alert, 2012-10-20) Ochola, J.; Kisato, J.; Kinuthia, L.; Mwasiagi, J.; Waithaka, A.
Fiber to yarn conversion process has been affected by several factors which include properties of raw material, level of technology, machinery and skill of machine operators. In cotton fibre spinning, the cost of raw material plays an important role, since it accounts for over 50% of the total cost of the ring spun yarn. Yarn imperfection (neps, thick and thin places) on the other hand is an important yarn parameter which affects yarn and fabric processing, and quality parameter. In this study, the relationship between fiber properties and yarn imperfections has been investigated using statistical and Monte Carlo techniques. The linear regression analysis developed models that generated coefficient of regression (R) value of 0.68, 0.65 and 0.68, respectively for neps, thick and thin places, respectively. The sensitivity analysis for statistical models showed that yarn twist, micronaire value, fiber maturity, trash area, fiber length, fiber strength and fiber yellowness are the influential factors for affecting yarn imperfections. Others factors that included trash grade, fiber uniformity, spinning consistency index, fiber reflectance, yarn linear density, trash content, fiber elongation and short fiber index should also are considered while studying yarn imperfection of cotton ring spun yarns.
Enhancing Graduate Employability through Community Engagement: A Case Study of Students’ Community Service at Kenyatta University
(American Research Institute for Policy Development, 2013) Tumuti, D. W.; Mule, L. W.; Gecaga, M.; Manguriu, D. G.
Kenya is increasingly looking to universities to prepare individuals who are employable, can contribute to the country’s socio-economic development, and can improve the country’s standing in the global arena. This paper argues that community engagement presents higher education with an opportunity to enhance graduate employability by helping to develop generic skills while benefiting off-campus communities. Focusing mainly on Kenyatta University (KU), the authors examine the potential of one community engagement program—Students Community Service Programme (SCSP)—in these two areas. The article also discusses ways that community engagement can be improved in Kenyan universities
Employability of Fashion and Garmet Making Students from Youth Polytechnics as Perceived by Employers in Gatundu and Thika Districts, Kenya
(2013) Mbugua, Gladwell W; Kamau, Peninah W.
Skills training in Fashion and Textiles should lead to employability and job creation for its graduates. This is important for youth development and industrial growth as envisaged in Kenya’s vision 2030. This paper reports on the findings from a survey conducted to collect views on the appropriate employability skills required by employers in Fashion and Clothing industries. Participants included; clothing factory managers, tailors designers and trainers in Gatundu and Thika district. An interview was used to collect responses from 30 respondents selected through stratified random sampling. The respondents were required to give their views on the competencies required for the Fashion and Garment making trainee to fit appropriately in the job market. The data obtained was qualitative in nature and exposed gaps in occupational skills, interpersonal, empowerment and critical thinking skill. The findings of the study are likely to benefit curriculum developers in TVET program, the teachers, students and the Fashion and Textile Industries who are the main employers
Transfer of Technology (Cad & Cam) Through Education and Training: A Total Quality Model (TQM)
(2013) Isika, J.K.; Kisato, J.
The cotton sector in Kenya consists of a large number of farmers in the Coastal, Eastern, North Eastern, Rift Valley and Western parts of the country. Despite this, cotton exports from Kenya are almost negligible and import of cotton from neighbouring countries supplements industrial domestic requirements. In the production, domestic spinning and weaving capacities have reduced from 52 mills in 1983 to about 6 mills currently (Wazir, August 2011).The garment sector on the other hand is driven by exports to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) with a total of approximately 170 large scale manufacturing units. An analysis of the East African region shows that Kenya, Sudan, Tanzania and Uganda account for significant quantities of cotton production. However, this industry suffers due to the use of outdated technologies particularly in ginning and textile manufacturing. The small scale holder producers also have limited knowledge on crop and farm management practices, input procurement and supply trends as well as price and market trends (Wazir, August 2011). These challenges result in a low cotton yield. Further to this, the quality of cotton also has high contamination. This poster seeks to show how transfer of technology through training and education can mitigate these challenges at all levels of the Cotton textile and Apparel (CTA) value chain .A total quality model (TQM) used across the CTA value chain in Sri Lanka in 2006 was adopted for this presentation and Quick Response (QR) program adoption by manufacturers and retailers in the apparel industry in USA around 1985. Further to this, technology transfer could also facilitate for value addition opportunities in cotton therefore creating extra jobs across the value chain.
Employability of Fashion and Garment Making Students from Youth Polytechnics of Kenya
(Vetri Publications, 2013) Mbugua, Gladwell W; Kamaul, Peninah Wakiuru; Wamutitu, Joseph Mworia
Skills training in fashion and textiles should lead to employability and job creation for its graduates. This is important for youth development and industrial growth as envisaged in Kenya’s vision 2030. This paper reports on the different views collected from the employers in fashion and clothing industries who include: clothing factory managers, tailors, designers and trainers in Gatundu and Thika districts. A questionnaire was used to collect responses from 30 respondents selected through stratified random sampling. The questionnaire sought responses from the stakeholders on the competencies required for the Youth polytechnic fashion and garment making trainees to fit appropriately into the job market. The data obtained were qualitative in nature and exposed gaps in occupational skills - interpersonal, empowerment and critical thinking. The findings of the study are likely to benefit curriculum developers for youth polytechnics (YPs) and Vocational training centres’ (VCTs) programs, the teachers, students and the fashion and textile industries who are the main employers
Education and Innovation in the Digital Age: Synergizing Technology and the Business of Learning
(Kenya Institute of Education, 2013) Kisato, J.
Kenya's education and training curricula aims at ensuring that the creation, adoption, adaptation and usage of knowledge become part of formal instruction. Under Education and training the Government aims at providing a globally competitive quality education, training and research for development. (Kenya Vision 2030). Higher learning in tertiary institutions and universities has embraced Information technology to keep abreast with the changing times both in curriculum delivery and administrative processes. In the creative design area, this is no exception. Departments of Architecture, Design, Fine Art and Fashion Design and Marketing are embracing computer technology in curriculum delivery and implementation to prepare students for the job market. This paper seeks to address the creative process in design and the adoption of computer technology in design among visual designers. The study is based on the hypothesis that Computer Aided Design (CAD) training is a skill that is vital for the employability of the youth in both local and international educational and business markets. In an effort to understand the level of adoption of CAD in the design process, existing theoretical and empirical literature was used. A critical analysis of data collected from secondary sources, interviews and direct communication with design students from various Kenyan Universities was done. The findings of this study are significant to institutions offering visual design courses by giving feedback on the opportunities and challenges of adopting Computer Aided Design . It will also stir concern in universities to actively engage in the research of creating CAD croqouis for subjects such as mathematics and the sciences to enhance performance in secondary and primary schools. This in essence will synergize.
Body Measurement Technology and Utilisation: Implications for Africa
(African Journal of Education, Science and Technology, 2013-10) Otieno, Rose Bujehela
Anthropometry is fundamental in medicine, ergonomics, clothing, nutrition, fitness and health among other areas. Although utilised worldwide for clothing purposes, body measurement was based on manual and more recently, digital methods mainly in selected countries especially in the West. Current trends focus on new technology including state-of-the-art body scanning and subsequent utilisation and integration of such data in medicine, ergonomics, clothing design, health and fitness. Major national surveys continue to be conducted worldwide, but these are proprietary especially because of the cost implications and funding arrangements. While some measurement of African populations has been conducted, documentation and dissemination of such data is limited, thereby creating an apparent gap in knowledge and its application. The purpose of this paper is to contextualise body measurement in clothing technology and the utilisation of such data in Africa; and to present views from clothing technology perspectives that were collected from specialists and final year university students. Using an interview schedule, data were collected and analysed. Areas for focus were knowledge, educational programmes, usability, availability, new technology and its uptake, research and utilisation in industry. Findings reveal the urgent need for current comprehensive anthropometric data regarding African populations such as the Kenyan one. Poor resources and relevant knowledge, technology cost, poor up-take are reasons for lack of utilisation. To leverage funding, collaboration between governments, educational and research institutions on the one hand and related industry on the other is recommended. Integration of new digital and scanning technologies in body measurement could enhance global competitiveness; with validity and usability of such data across the different disciplines. The importance, context and implications of body measurement technology in clothing in Kenya and Africa are discussed.

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