MST-Department of Textiles, Family and Consumer Sciences

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Determination of quality and utilization of Aramine fibres from the plant urena lobata as a textile fibre in Kenya
(2012-04-11) Nkatha, Lydia; Tumuti, D.W.
Since Kenya imports most of the vegetable fibres apart from cotton and sisal, there is need for research in the development and utilisation of other vegetable fibres sources. This study however, was aimed at analysis the quality of aramina fibres from the plant Urena Lobata that grows widely and as a weed in Kenya. Specifically the study was to determine the chemical and physical properties of aramina fibres, make sample yarns from fibres using hand-spinning methods, construct sample articles using simple hand techniques and compare the aramina fibre qualities with the established properties of a textile fibre. The methodology used was experimental and involved extraction of the fibre by retting process, situational observation of the experiments and note taking as well as making of sample articles. The analysis was done both qualitatively and quantitatively, and the results presented in terms of reports, tables and figures. The experiments were carried out at Kenya Bureau of Standards (Textile Quality Control Laboratory) where the necessary conditions for textile testing were maintained at temperature 20°C + 2°C and Relative Humidity 65 + 2%. The carding, spinning and dyeing process were carried out at the Fine Art department (Kenyatta University) The process of extraction of aramina fibres has not been documented. However, Joseph (1986), and Ghosh (1993) argue that the fibre can be extracted in a similar manner as jute. Therefore, the process of jute fibre extraction was adapted whereby the barks were stripped off from the wooden portion and subjected to partial rotting by immersion in water. The process took two (2) weeks and about 2.6 kg of fibres were obtained from 22 kg of unretted green bark. The unretted bark contained impurities and moisture hence were much heavier than the dry fibres. The fibres were then subjected to various fibre tests. The fibre was found to have a staple length of 13.5 cm and burning characteristics like those of other natural cellulose fibres such as cotton and linen. The fibre has a moisture regain value of 9.7%, 42.9% stronger when wet than dry and percentage elongation was recorded to be 1.035 when dry and 1.3% when wet. The wetness of the fibre has significant effect on the elongation as well as on fibre strength (tenacity) which was found to be 2.0 g/d for the wet fibres while that of the dry fibres was found to be 1.4%%g/d. Chemically the fibre is affected by acids and this implies that the fibre cannot be dyed using dyestuffs that are acidic or stored in acidic solvents and this property is important in the formation of oxycellulose used in the manufacture of regenerated fibres. The fibre was found to be resilient and pliable. This quality made it possible to be spun into yarn, which was later, dyed and made into articles. Various methods used to make the articles include crocheting, plaiting, hand weaving, card weaving and macramé knots. The articles made include a shoulder bag, a tablemat, a floor mat, a belt, a plant hanger and a toothpick holder cover. In short, the fibre was found to qualify as a textile fibre and can be recommended for usage in the textile industry both at large and small scale. Since it's locally available, cheap to obtain and of good spinning and dyeing quality it can be of a great use in the "Jua Kali" sector.
Extraction and Utilization of Texture Fibres from the Leaves of the Pineapple Plants
(2014-03-18) Kariuki, Mary Mumbi; Mokabi, N.; Tumuti, D.W.
Given that vast quantities of pineapple leaves go into waste each year in Kenya, this study was carried out to investigate the possibility of extracting the fibre and to further analyze the quality of the fibre in comparison to other cellulosic fibres that are already in use in the Kenyan textile industry. About 1.lkg of fibre was extracted using hand decorticating methods. The fibre tests that were carried out showed the fibre to be similar to flax in visual and Longitudinal microscopic appearance, while the cross-sectional appearance is like that of sisal. The burning characteristics are similar to those of other cellulosic fibres in general. The moisture regain value of 10..39 is close to that of cotton which ranges from 7-12. However the tenacity of the fibre is lower than that of other cellulosic fibres, though slightly higher than that of regular rayon which is a regenerated cellulose fibre. The fibres were also spun using hand techniques, and a variety of textile articles made using various hand weaving techniques.
Factors influencing consumer's selection of imported over local clothing among working women in Nairobi, Kenya
(2012-06-11) Nyang'or, Eunice Akoth
This was a survey research into the factors influencing consumers' selection of imported over local clothing. The major objectives of this study were to: (1) identify the socio-economic profile of working women, (2) identify imported clothing categories purchased by working women, (3) identify the socio-demographic, economic and clothing characteristics influencing selection of imported over local clothing by working women, (4) determine factors influencing selection of specific imported clothing items e.g. dresses, shoes and brassieres (5) assess the attitude of working women towards the use of imported versus local clothing. (6) Determine the relationship between selection of imported over local clothing and socio demographic, economic and clothing characteristics. The data for this study were collected using an interview schedule, which was administered by the research to a sample of 90 working women in Nairobi from July, 1992 to December 1992. The analyzed data are presented in frequency distribution, percentages, mean scores and the Spearman's Rank Order Correlation Coefficient. Results on socio-economic profile of the working women showed that the most represented age bracket was (21-30) years. Most of the women were also married. The most represented income group was between Kshs. 2,001-3,000/=, while 'O' level plus some college training was the educational level most represented. A majority of the working women were subordinate workers. It was also found that most of the working women prefer imported to local clothing and that outer garments were most popular followed by accessories and lastly inner garments. On socio-demographic and economic factors influencing selection of imported over local clothing, factors that most influenced the working women were price, beliefs and/or values, attitude, fashion or latest style, uniqueness of items, appearance in an item, social activities one is engaged in, income per month purpose of buying an item, and occupation. The clothing characteristics that mostly influenced working women's selection of imported over clothing included good construction, fitting qualities, design, fabric finished and fabric construction/texture. On dresses, factors that mostly influenced working women were size, performance, cost, fitting qualities, construction, design and figure type, while for shoes the factors included size, style, color, workmanship, fitting qualities and care instructions and for brassiers, only size had most influence on their selection. The study showed that consumers (working women) had a positive attitude towards imported clothing and a negative one towards local ones. Selection of imported over local clothing showed significant positive relationship with care instructions, meaning that the respondents preferred selecting imported to local clothing because they had care instructing written on their labels. It also correlated positively with our beliefs and or values. The study generated a number of recommendations: (1) clothing producers and other related bodies need to address themselves to the socio-Demographic, Economic and Clothing characteristics selection of Imported Clothing over Local by consumers (working women), the implications of these factors to local clothing production and marketing, (2) factors that influence choice of imported dresses, shoes and brassieres need to be addressed and adopted by local producers and manufactures to improve on similar local items, (3) adoption of working women's suggestions on ways of improving local clothing items for example improving on the quality standards, training sales personnel and launching a vigilant consumer protection service, (4) The Ministry of Culture and Social Services, and Ministry of Industry and school authorities need to launch a vigilant campaign on the need for Kenyan consumers to appreciate and protect their culture by purchasing local clothing more than imported items.
Factors influencing the business viability of local apparel trade within a liberalised market: a case of Nairobi, Kenya
(2012-04-23) Elung'ata, Beatrice; Mburugu, K. G.; Mugenda, Olive M.
The purpose of this study was to find out the factors influencing the business viability of local apparel trade within a liberalized market in Nairobi, and to investigate how consumer preferences and buying practices have affected apparel trade. Data were collected using interview schedules and observation checklist. A random sample of 90 apparel traders was drawn from three market centres in Nairobi (Kenyatta market, Jericho market and the Central business district) for interview according to the types of apparel they sold. These types were new imported; second-hand; locally manufactured and custom-tailored apparel. Data were analyzed by use of frequencies, percentages and Chi-square tests using the Statistical Package for Social Sciences software (SPSS®). Results from the study showed that 57% of the apparel traders were female. Majority, (80%) were under the age of 40 years. All traders had received some level of formal education. Most (71%) apparel traders had 1-5 employees, an indication, an indication of small-sized businesses. More than half (64%) of the respondents owned their businesses. Notably, 57% had up to 5 years experience in selling apparel. The main types of apparel sold were New Imported (37%) and Custom-tailored (32%). Majority (89%) of the traders targeted women as their main clientele because they were considered the most willing buyers. In addition, they also stocked apparel for men and/or children in order to make more profit for their businesses. Lack of customers, stiff competition and lack of government support were reported as major problems facing over 50% of the traders. For most traders, providing high quality merchandise was the main strategy used to solve their problems. Government support by way of providing loans and making prices (license fees, taxes, custom charges) affordable were suggested as ways of creating a level trading ground for all traders. This would also increase the traders' business performance and viability. From the study, 40% of the respondents made up to Ksh.40, 000 per month during times of high sales. Chi-square analysis showed that the traders' age, position held in business and source of fabric/clothing significantly influenced the types of apparel sold by traders. Therefore, apparel traders could enhance these key factors to increase competitive edge in the market. From the analysis, it was evident that the type of apparel sold by traders was affected by consumer preferences for imported apparel because locally produced apparel did not meet consumers' needs in terms of quality and variety. The Ministry of Trade and Industry should formulate mechanisms that will enable apparel traders access information easily on existing trends and policies as they affect their businesses. Apparel producers and traders could use this information to improve the quality of local items. Lack of a level trading ground for all traders remained as the main deterrent to their success.
Physiological, psychological and socio-economic factors influencing clothing selection and buying practices among Kenyans: a study of Kenyatta University community
(2012-06-15) Otieno, Giannaenerica Kwena
This was a survey research with a two-fold purpose. One purpose was to investigate how physiological, psychological and socio-economic factors influence clothing selection and buying practices among Kenyans. The other purpose was to identify factors that underlie satisfaction and dissatisfaction with clothing selection and buying by individuals in Kenya's clothing market. The major objectives of this study were to (1) identify the clothing information sources used by Kenyans, (2) identify the physiological, psychological and socio-economic factors influencing clothing selection and buying practices among Kenyans, (3) determine if there are significant differences between male and female consumers with respect to physiological, psychological and socio-economic factors as they affect their clothing selection and buying practices, and (4) identify factors that underlie respondents' satisfaction and dissatisfaction with clothing selection and buying. The data used in the study were collected using a questionnaire, which was administered by the researcher to a sample of 150 members of staff at the Kenyatta University starting October, 1989 to January 1990. The data were analysed by the use of frequencies, percentages, mean scores, T-tests and Pearson Product-Moment correlation. Results showed that most sources of clothing information especially the impersonal communication channels such as Television advertisements, newspaper articles and fashion magazines were underutilized or unpopular with consumers for being costly, not readily available or unreliable. Among the used sources, clothing displays and personal communication channels were the most utilized by consumers. The study showed that the physiological factors that most influenced consumers' clothing selection and buying practices were good construction and finishing qualities in clothing, colour and design of fabrics, fitting characteristics of clothing and purpose for which clothing items were bought. The psychological factors that most influenced consumers' clothing selection and buying included item in which one looked beautiful, one's own beliefs and values, cost of the item and acceptable styles by society. The socio-economic factors that had most influence on consumers' clothing selection and buying practices were amount of money available, number of dependants in one's household, one's age and status one held in society. Very few physiological, psychological and socio-economic factors showed significant difference between male and female respondents in their clothing selection buying practices. Fabric construction as a physiological factor showed significant difference between males and females, with a higher influence on the female than the male consumers. There were significant differences between males and females in three psychological factors among which prestige of item's brand name influenced the males more, while, latest style or fashion and own beliefs and values influenced female consumers more. The socio-economic factors that showed significant difference between males and females were religious norms and/or beliefs and status held in society. These had more influence on the female consumers than on the male. Satisfaction with clothing selection and buying showed significant positive relationship with the male, married consumers, older age, low educational level, low household income, high number of dependants, own beliefs and values, and religious norms or beliefs. There was however a negative relationship with purpose for which item was bought, label information, care for garment, fabric construction, prestige of item's brand name, was bought, label information, care for garment, fabric construction, prestige of item's brand name, social activities engaged in and uniqueness of outfit. It was evident that consumers were dissatisfied with various aspects within Kenya's clothing market. These were the clothing information available, quality standards of most clothing items, the consumers' protection service, consumer's knowledge about textile fabrics' quality, availability of imported second-hand clothing, assistance given by sales personnel and hawking of imported clothing.
Psychological and socio-economic factors influencing clothing consumption by employed women in a liberalised market: a case of Nairobi city, Kenya
(2012-02-01) Apunda, Edwinah Amondi; Tumuti, D.W.; Gitobu, Julia K.
Kenya's participation in the global trade as a result of liberalization has been evidently felt by clothing consumers since the year, 1993. Many traders have since been able to import goods at relatively lower costs than before, clothing items being among them. Consequently, consumption of imported clothing items by Kenyans has been enhanced a great deal; a fact evident on the streets of Nairobi city as consumers are dressed in varied clothing fashions and designs. However, problems such as exploitation of consumers by traders, demonstrated in a number of ways still remain. The purpose of this research, therefore, was to identify the psychological and socio-economic factors, which influence the selection and consumption patterns of clothing by women in the liberalized market. The study focused on the Central Business District of Nairobi City. This study adopted the descriptive survey design. A sample of 233 female employees (156 and 77) was obtained from Government of Kenya ministries and Private Employment Companies respectively. Purposive sampling technique was used. A list of GOK ministries was obtained from the Central Bureau of Statistics, while the Nairobi Stock Exchange office provided the list for the PEC. Data were collected using 'closed and open' ended questionnaire. Frequencies and percentages were used to organize and analysed the data. An attempt to use Chi-square test of relationship was made, but the results were presented and analysed at the cross-tabulation level. The response rate was 89.6 percent. Results show that the psychological factors, which strongly influenced the respondents' clothing selection/consumption, were: clothing items in which one looked attractive, what was fashionable, the personal values or beliefs of the respondents, the respondents' attitude towards clothing items in the liberalised market, the cost of the clothing item in question, the quality of the clothing items, the colour of the clothing items and the fitting characteristics of the clothing items. The socio-economic factors were the amount of money available to them, the social activities in which they engaged, what was approved by their peers, colleagues and family members, the purpose/use of the clothing items, and their employment status. The market related problems, which also affected the consumers' clothing consumption, were: uniform style of dressing, rapid rate of fashion change, exorbitant prices on clothing items, which are otherwise unique, sale of imitation clothing for original ones by clothing producers and retailers. A high proportion of the respondents belonged to the low and middle-income groups with only a few in the high-income group. They preferred imported clothing items to the local ones. The results also show that clothing stores and boutiques selling new clothes were the most preferred outlets from which the respondents selected their clothing items, while the displays formed the most popular source of information concerning clothing. Clothing items worn by other people also formed another popular source from which fashion was copied. In conclusion, there is a lot of exploitation of clothing consumers by sellers in the liberalized market, which is based on the consumers' strong belief on imported items. It is also clear that economic liberalization has helped Kenyan Clothing producers to improve on the standards of textile products. It is, therefore, recommended that the Ministry of Trade and Industry, together with the KCO should constantly check that sales are conducted genuinely, and use these findings to sensitise consumers on the improvements on locally made items.
The role of clothing in developing self-worth• among pre-adolescents: a case of primary schools in Kasarani Division, Nairobi Kenya
(Kenyatta University, 2004) Maiyo, Chepchumba Rael; Mburugu, K. G.; Mugenda, Olive M.
Throughout history, clothing has always been regarded as one of the primary needs of a human being and primary needs must be fulfilled before secondary needs are fulfilled. Self-worth, one of the secondary needs consists of self-concept and selfesteem. It is during the pre-adolescent period that a child starts defining self and this determines perception of self-worth. The purpose of this study therefore, was to investigate on issues related to clothing satisfaction of the pre-adolescents and how it influences their perception of self-worth. The objectives of the study were to: determine the pre-adolescent's socio-economic background and demographic characteristics, establish how the pre-adolescents acquired their clothing and factors considered in the selection, establish the extent to which the pre-adolescents were satisfied with their clothing and assess their perception of self-worth, establish the relationship between the pre-adolescent's satisfaction with clothing and their perception of self-worth, and also relationship between clothing satisfaction with variables such as their involvement in clothing selection and their socio-economic background and demographic characteristics. This study was a survey research conducted in six primary schools in Kasarani Division of Nairobi Province, using an interview schedule and an essay. A sample of 144 pre-adolescents was selected by stratified and simple random sampling methods. <; Both qualitative and quantitative data were collected and analysed. The findings showed that most of the pre-adolescent's parents/guardians were educated, employed and resided in the urban area. The majority of the respondents had their clothing mainly bought for by their parents; open-air markets selling second-hand clothes being where most clothes were mainly bought. Most pre-adolescents were mainly involved in their clothing selection. What is accepted by parents and peers were the socio-cultural factors that always influenced pre-adolescent's clothing selection while size and colour were the most influential among the factors related to clothing characteristics. The majority of them were satisfied with their clothing and attributed size and colour to clothing satisfaction. Most of them had a high perception of self-worth in relation to their clothing. There was significant relationship between clothing satisfaction and self-worth, clothing satisfaction and involvement in clothing selection. No significant relationships were found between clothing satisfaction and variables such school type, gender, age and highest education attained by respondent's mothers. It was concluded that through symbolic interaction with significant others and peer group members, clothing satisfaction plays a significant role in increasing the preadolescent's self-worth and therefore issue such like involvement in clothing selection which affects pre-adolescent's clothing satisfaction should be considered by those involved with pre-adolescents' clothing. For instance parents should involve their children in their clothing selection, school policy makers who deal with school uniforms and designers of children's clothing should always seek the children's opinion when dealing with their designs. Clothing scholars should also emphasize on the symbolic implication of clothing satisfaction to social interaction and its significant role in increasing self-worth, local designers should improve their designs and further research should be done on clothing in relation to other psychological Issues.
A study of the training needs of quality control and production managers in clothing industries in Nairobi
(2012-02-28) Oigo, E. Bosibori; Tumuti, D.W.; Mburugu, K. G.
This study investigated the competencies and training needs of quality and production managers in large and medium size garment manufacturing firms in Nairobi. It also sought to know the relationship between the firm characteristics and problems they faced, and the relationship between the competencies and training needs of training managers. This information showed issues affecting the industry and proposed ways of dealing with them to improve the quality of clothing manufactured in Kenya. A survey of 35 garment manufacturers was done between June 1996 and April 1997, and in-depth interviews carried out with their quality and production managers. The data collected was analysed then summarized using frequencies and percentages. Most of the firms were large and produced uniforms or undergarments for sale in the local market only. The study found that those making other types of clothing were more likely to experience problems arising from the liberalization of the economy, although all the firms had problems with quality. All of the managers interviewed (13) said they combined the roles of Quality Control Manager and Production Manager but most of their duties involved production management rather than quality control. Fifty-four percent (seven) of the managers had worked for more than ten years in their present jobs and had formal training in subjects related to their jobs. Approximately half of them (46%) felt they did not need further training in managerial skills. All four managers with on-the-job training as opposed to formal training expressed a need for training in technical skills. On the basis of the findings, recommendations were made to the manufacturers to reduce the workload of their managers and take a more active role in purchasing high quality inputs. Technical institutes should develop their quality control courses so that they can conveniently be offered to the busy managers in clothing industries. The government needs to enforce legislation and institute policies to protect the clothing industry from unfair trade practices. This will enable it to revive and develop to its full potential, to cope with competition in a liberalized economy.

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